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Bulla, a Spanish gastrobar on Ponce de Leon Boulevard, best exemplifies the Coral Gables revival. Owner Carlos Centurión was formerly the proprietor of Por Fin, a white-tablecloth restaurant located in the same space. But formalities tired him. Bulla, his new spot, furnished with walnut wood floors, hanging light bulbs, and equine-inspired décor, is younger, cooler, and better than before. So at the freestanding marble bar, under the mahogany marquee, it's always time for a drink. Cocktails here are delicious and fussy, infused with citrus marmalades, lemongrass syrups, and homemade passionfruit tonics. Venture to the dining room, where chalkboards list Spanish dishes and swaddle blond wooden walls, to sample chef Luis Quant's small-plates cuisine. Doused in fried tomato paste, albóndigas -- veal and pork meatballs -- swim in milky stracciatella. Croquetas de jamón, golden bits of pinguid beauty, gleam beneath a thin fig jam glaze. At Bulla, Quant's cookery borders on ordinary, but it triumphs with the teeniest of novelties.