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This huge, multileveled restaurant looks more like a corporate convention's dining facility than a bistro. But when the upper tier's filled with packed buffet tables on Sunday, the lack of intimacy pales next to the phenomenal deal: The $29.95 all-you-can-eat brunch for two even includes all-you-can-drink "champagne." (It's New York State J. Roget, not French Pol Roger, but have your friendly server make it into a mimosa and it does the job.) In gourmet terms, food's spotty; in gourmand terms, there' s enough that diners are bound to hit something they like by and by. At nonbrunch times, it's best to stick to simple preparations, but some of these are superior, like lunch's moist (and huge) Super Grouper sandwich, or, for dinner, a plentiful Spanish Antipasto platter that shines with high-quality raw ingredients.