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We took our seats at a picnic table in the spacious, lawn-covered grounds behind the 79th Street quarters. There's an outdoor patio in front, too, with crowded tables and a busy bar crammed beneath a bamboo roof. Bracing the front of the indoor room is a bigger, bulkier bar, above which are suspended framed mirrors with wines, beers, cocktail specials, and menu items scrawled upon them. Live Brazilian music bounces through the air -- just what you might imagine party time at a Brazilian brasserie would be like. The menu comprises a dozen petisco de botecos (appetizers), and eight porções (sides). Winners among the former were creamy bacalao croquettes, and a six-pack of empanadas stuffed with beef, shrimp, and hearts of palm. Chicken croquettes were doughy and nearly devoid of chicken, so poultry purists should pick instead frango a passarinho, hacked pieces of chicken, some on the bone, some not, all fried and tastily tossed with garlic and parsley. Picanha fatiada na chapa, which translates to "grilled sirloin steak," is the most entréelike serving, and would have satisfied had it not been overcooked to the consistency of jerky. "Shredded jerk beef," on the other hand, turned out to be softly braised morsels of meat simmering with mashed yuca and melted Catupiry cheese. When Boteco gets busy, which is just about always, servers tend to get overwhelmed, so be sure to place your drink orders in quickly. Beers include Peroni, Brahma, and the Brazilian Novaskin. Wines -- just a few on hand -- are $5 per glass, as are textbook caipirinhas. Food, too, is a bargain, with all offerings running $6 to $13.