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This budget-chic bistro in a dreary Kendall strip mall is the kind of restaurant that is the backbone of any serious dining town -- a neighborhood place that pays upscale attention to food and service but charges only midscale prices. The menu here is mostly classic bistro; if you want stir-fried butterfly lips, you'll have to look somewhere else. The classics are nicely done though. Celery root rémoulade is as enjoyable as it is elemental. Steak frites is a first-rate preparation of beef and potatoes, and rabbit braised with apple cider and green olives is one tasty, tender bunny. Molten-centered chocolate cake closes out a meal on a high note.