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The swank, attractive surroundings; swank, attractive crowd; thoughtful wine list; alluring fare; and countless titillating details make Barton G the most daringly and delightfully different restaurant to open in Miami Beach since the respective debuts of China Grill and Tantra -- and this one is a lot more affordable. Those who know of Barton's reputation as the event impresario with an inclination for over-the-top theatrics will be surprised by the subtle brown and bronze earth tones that swathe the tasteful, relatively restrained décor of his restaurant; the orchid garden outside is likewise elegant. Cuisine at Barton G can be whimsical and down-home or tastefully sophisticated -- point is, you can eat any which way you please, from Dover sole with shrimp mousse to popcorn shrimp to truffled macaroni and cheese to grilled New York strip. Desserts look like props from Pee Wee's Playhouse, especially the "Big Top cotton candy and over-the-top popcorn surprise," a shrub-size wad of lavender cotton candy on a stick, with chocolate truffles bursting from bon bons inside of popcorn balls.