Tiramesu

This South Beach veteran cooks pastas to order, including noodles such as pipette all'amatriciana with bacon and onions, and elbows with porcini mushrooms and arugula. Gnocchi float like foam on waves. Dishes come in three sizes: starter, regular, or family (the last two are served in bowls with ladles). Dependable meat and fish entrées mark a departure from the former location; the dessert for which the place is named is the same as ever. Lunch and dinner.