Like many restaurants in our subtropical paradise, Sea Siam pads its Thai menu (excuse the pun) with sushi in an effort to broaden its appeal. And it does. Basics such as spicy tuna and the JB roll are clean, fresh, and well executed, and signatures such as the "kissing roll" ($10), a California roll topped with smoked salmon and eel sauce; and the taste-bud tingling "red rose roll" ($13), a dragon roll stuffed with cream cheese and topped with raw tuna, are enough to satisfy most Magic City sushi enthusiasts. But the Thai cuisine here is tasty enough to draw crowds on its own (hence a new and more modern-looking southwest Kendall location, dubbed Sea Siam Connection). Shrimp in a blanket ($8.95) arrive as five finger-size crustaceans stuffed with tiny helpings of crab and pork, wrapped in pastry sheets, and deep-fried. Crispy duck ($18.50) has the pleasantly crisp-chewy texture of twice-cooked meat and comes loaded with cashews, baby corn, and black mushrooms. And panang curry ($11.50) brings tender shards of pork with a creamy sauce that, if ordered spicy, will peel the skin off your lips. But it hurts so good.