If you ever want to nerd out on bivalves, head to Market at Momi. "Oysters should be eaten within two minutes of being shucked," says owner and ramen whiz Jeffrey Chen. "After two minutes, bacteria from the air infiltrates the oyster, and it’s not the same." You know Chen. Around the corner at Momi Ramen, he turns out toothsome noodles in a slick, fatty tonkotsu broth that takes up to 24 hours to produce. He opened this sonnet to the sea with 30 East and West Coast varieties, including the hard-to-source succulent European variety from France called Belon. And if you can't kick your noodle itch, Chen will happily shuck some of his bounty into a steaming bowl of soup laced with scallions and green chilies. Pull up a seat at the black-and-white marble bar and have a good stack of napkins handy.
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