Ironside Pizza is a straightforward place that takes its pizza seriously. So much so that they hired a pizzaiolo certified by Italy's so-called pizza police to oversee pie production. The key is how the dough is stretched: never in the air, and from the center out. What results are pies with supremely thin centers requiring they be eaten with a fork and knife, as it's done in Naples. The crusts, however, are slightly chewy, and crisp, bubbly rings round out each bite.