Rigged out in shipboard gear, this fine seafood restaurant has earned its spars and stripes. You almost expect the creaking of the hull and the tang of salt air; instead, you get the horns and exhaust from Eighth Street and one of the best Cuban meals in the city. For starters: clams in green sauce or shrimp in garlic sauce, kingfish escabeche or fish soup. Then whole baby squid stuffed with ham in brown sauce, shellfish galore in rich buttery tomato sauce, or paella Covadonga for two.
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I was born into a family of suburban fishermen. On weekends, vacations, and holidays while I was growing up, my father, brother, and sister liked nothing better than to drop a line into the water. They were pretty good at it, too. S...