Bulla (pronounced boo-yah) is younger, cooler, and better than ever. Cocktails are delicious and fussy, infused with cardamom and currant syrup, lemongrass, and cucumber purée. Venture into the dining room, where chalkboards listing Spanish dishes adorn the blond-wood walls, to sample the small-plates cuisine. Doused in fried-tomato paste, albóndigas — veal-and-pork meatballs — swim in milky stracciatella. Croquetas de jamón — golden bits of pinguid beauty — gleam beneath a thin fig-jam glaze. On Saturday and Sunday, Bulla offers brunch. Try the decadent huevos Bulla — house-made potato chips topped with a jumbo organic egg, potato foam, thin slices of Serrano ham, and a prodigious drizzle of truffle oil.