For a low-key sushi experience at rock-bottom pricing, the sushi bar at the Japanese Market can't be beat. It's a tiny Asian place nicknamed "Sushi Deli," as indicated by the neon sign displayed inside an otherwise nondescript storefront, located in a random strip mall on the 79th Street Causeway. Chef Michio Kushi's hands work quickly to mold rice, which he tops with an array of fresh fish from a countertop selection that is somehow of higher quality than many local high-end Japanese restaurants. Salmon, yellowtail, fluke, and eel ($1.50 each) are thinly sliced, as he prefers them; edges of the tuna sashimi are almost translucent. A piece of tako sashimi ($1.50) is faultless, and we are picky about our octopus (can't be too thick or it gets chewy). Ask for uni ($2.50) and hope there's some left. On occasion, it runs out early because the Japanese Market is the cheapest place in town to go crazy for urchin (it's easy to rack up quite a tab at most other places). We suggest a few nuggets of sweet shrimp, whose heads are removed and deep-fried. The raw tail flesh becomes pristine sushi, and the tentacles and eyes get nice and crunchy. Sushi Deli makes a few kinds of spicy tuna — the "Marie" roll ($4.75) boasts a roasted garlic topping, while "Captain Tuna" is the "rich and spicy" version ($5.95). The "regular combo" is a steal: six pieces of assorted nigiri and a California or tuna roll for $8.95. Head to the rear of the market, select a bottle of sake to go with your meal, and simply ask for it to be added to your tab. You have to eat early, though. Last call for sushi is 6:45 p.m. weekdays and Saturdays, and 5:45 Sundays. The sushi bar is closed Monday and Tuesday.