There's nothing quite like a strapping young Spanish man with a chiseled body cooking delectable Spanish cuisine, moving about the kitchen like he designed it himself, wearing an apron — and nothing else. Ah, what we'd give to spend a week in Barcelona doing field research on this sort of thing. You know, for journalism. Well, you will find something close at Xixón. The people are good-looking, the place is cozy, and la comida is as good as it gets. Whether you're into almejas en salsa verde (steamed clams in green sauce, $11), empanadas de atún (tuna, $3.75), or Andaluz gazpacho ($5), Xixón brings northern Spanish fare right to our back yard. The market on the first floor of this two-story space offers all the wine, jamón serrano, and Manchego (and fine Spanish olive oils, spices, etc.) of your dreams. Go ahead and pick up a pound and a half of everything. The kids need sandwich fixings for the week anyway. And you need a bottle of delectably leggy Spanish wine. This place is big yet always packed, even during the week. Take it from us: Xixón is the real deal. We might even make T-shirts that say, "RealXixon." The fútbol fans would like that.