That "fresh" mozzarella you buy at Publix or gourmet markets is unquestionably worlds better than the standard rubbery, flavor-free stuff. But it's nothing compared to the cheese made by Vito Volpe, from Puglia (Italy's muzz capital), an importer of Italian artisan products who began selling his own totally homemade — and made fresh daily — mozzarella when he moved to Florida a bit more than a year ago. His simple and perfect Mozzarita ($8 per ball), one of the tastiest things to ever happen to cow's milk, was the sensation of this year's new Upper Eastside Green Market. And the newly addicted needn't fret now that market season is over; Vito's mozzarella is available year-round — along with his equally fresh ricotta, trendy cream-filled burrata, and scamorze (a drier aged mozzarella, ideal for pizzas) — at Casa Toscana Fine Foods and Wines (9840 NE Second Ave., Miami Shores 33138; 305-757-4454).