BEST JAMAICAN RESTAURANT Sango Jamaican and Chinese Restaurant 9485 SW 160th Street

Perrine

305-252-0279 Seems to us it would be entirely appropriate if Rosie Hollingshead decided to hang a sign in her petite Caribbean (forget the Chinese) take-out shop that reads: "It's the jerk, stupid." We wouldn't quibble with those who lean on the yellow Formica counter and request the Arawak-inspired pepper pot stew, or heartwarming pumpkin and beef soup, oxtails with lima beans, fried fish escovitch, or Jamaica's national dish of ackee and codfish; they are all delicious. Nor would we take issue with anyone who'd choose the curried goat, which comes aswirl in a delectably piquant stew. Prices are wonderfully low (under ten dollars), and portions are, as Rastafarians might put it, "I-normous." But Sango's jerked pork is the best north of Boston Bay -- thick chunks of slowly cooked meat punched up with the pungent and potent cure of scallions, thyme, nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper, coriander, ginger root, spicy Jamaican pimento, and intensely fiery Scotch bonnet pepper. A caveat: The dish is on Sango's weekly rotation of daily specials, so you have to arrive on a Wednesday to get your jerk; otherwise you might feel like one. But you can console yourself with any of the aforementioned delights, as well as a thick wedge of bread pudding and the purportedly aphrodisiacal Irish moss beverage.