North Miami Beach

305-956-5677 Kon Chau and Tropical Chinese Restaurant have dominated the dim sum awards for many a year, and rightly so. Both serve incontestably tasty and authentic dishes for almost minuscule amounts of money. Then again, so does Jumbo, and has done so since the Tang family, from Canton, opened the 95-seat spot in 1989. No trolley trolls the room. You just get a checklist of dim sum delicacies and mark the numbers down as if buying a lotto ticket. Here's a winning combo: steamed pork ribs; leek dumplings; rice pastry ravioli plumped with shrimp (har kow); turnip cakes stuffed with sausage, minced pork, and scallions. For dessert steamed sesame seed bun with lotus paste inside. Hard-core dim summers swear by Jumbo's chicken feet and beef tripe, but everyone gets knocked out by the pork-filled taro balls in crunchy yet airy crust. Nobody, not Tropical or Kon Chau, makes these better. Dim sum can be eaten any time of day, which is about when Jumbo serves it -- 11:00 a.m. (10:00 Sundays) until 9:30 p.m. (closed Wednesdays).