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BEST SUNDAY BRUNCH Miami 2004 - One Ninety

More bohemian hangout than formal restaurant, One Ninety is the sort of place you hope won't be ruined by too much exposure. So please don't bring your L.A. or New York friends here for Sunday brunch. Let's keep it in the family. The place already has an authentically homespun feel to it: funky-fun décor, a gallery component featuring the work of local artists, and live local bands. The Sunday spread begins with fresh-squeezed juice brought to your table by an attitude-free server. Then, after helping yourself to good strong coffee from the bar, proceed to the all-you-can-eat buffet. Dishes vary but typical choices include buttery-crusted artichoke/ crème fraîche tarts, a fabulously smooth carrot mousse, savory chicken salad, and tasty vegetable salads like a refreshing tomato, onion, and grain mix. (The dill-sprinkled, fresh-beet salad with Roquefort chunks could convert the most confirmed beet-hater.) There are also platters of various grilled or sautéed fresh veggies, scrumptious Southern-fried chicken, ribs that disappear within minutes after they hit the table, and desserts that'll make you wish you, like a cow, had two stomachs. Then your server returns with a menu of custom-cooked breakfast food -- eggs Florentine, strawberry pancakes, smoked-salmon omelets, huevos rancheros, and more -- from which diners can order any or all items. Whew! Price: $15.

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