At a power lunch the idea is to subtly one-up the other guy, to be intimidating while simultaneously demonstrating what a cool character you are. Chispa, which means "spark" (a nicely dangerous suggestion), is the ideal setting for this traditional dance of the business set. So sweep your client into a big booth in the A-list main room, ignoring the wimp tables in the outer area. The brainchild of chef/proprietor Robbin Haas, Chispa specializes in small plates, protein-packed Nuevo Latino ceviches like sliced salmon and avocado with a perfectly balanced sauce of sour orange, cumin, and honey. If the deal is clinched halfway through the meal, celebrate with a chunk of guava-cream cheese cake, which will instantly raise your cholesterol at least a hundred points, but is well worth it.