BEST FISH SANDWICH (2005)
305-751-1127 It's sweet that Jumbo's turned 50 this year, and noteworthy that it was one of the first Miami restaurants to integrate, but excuse us for being more impressed with the golden fried fish sandwich than any golden anniversary celebrations. This 24-hour Liberty City soul food diner fries up bountiful platters of chicken, shrimp, and all sorts of battered delights, and red-state sides like biscuits, gravy, black-eyed peas, and collard greens. All well and fine, but the crackly battered and fried whiting, a delicate, low-fat, white-fleshed relative of cod, is a revelation when plunked into a soft dinner roll -- and it's a complete lunch or dinner when sided with Jumbo's steamy-hot fries or signature homemade coleslaw. The fried fish sandwich is $4.74, and a dollar more for your choice of side. No extra charge for neon lights, yellowed menu signs, or the gloriously distinctive aroma of grease that only a true fry-joint can impart.
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