The Five Most Miami Collections at New York Fashion Week

Adriana Lima in Desigual
Adriana Lima in Desigual
Courtesy of Desigual

New York Fashion Week: Swim Week's older, pushier sister. But without that push, where the hell would Swim Week be? Would it even exist? The answer, presumably, is no.

And as much as we hate to admit it, a nod of appreciation is due in part to our contemporary neighbors to the north, as they have rightfully garnered the title of Fashion Capital of the Americas. A great deal of what is presented at NYFW trickles down to us palm-tree huggers, whether we embrace it or not. Because of its huge impact on not only Miami fashion, but to American fashion in general, Cultist has traveled afar to broadcast its most coveted runway shows of the season. Not just any shows, however; shows that best represent Miami, because it's all about us anyway, right?

Here are NYFW's most Miami-centric spring/summer runway shows and presentations:

See also: Top Ten WTF Moments at Miami Fashion Week

The Five Most Miami Collections at New York Fashion Week
Courtesy of Europa Press

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Custo Barcelona

It's safe to say that when it comes to skin, Miami is its mecca. You might even consider skin Miami's go-to fabric for every season. So it came as no surprise why Custo Barcelona's Spring-Summer 2015 collection, Skin, made our final cut. Über-sheer linens and geometric laser-cuts served as great supporting roles to the model's natural canvas, completing each look flawlessly. Evoking a more contemporary air than its previous seasons, the Spanish label refused to shy away from its signature vibrant color palate, displaying jacquard and evasee-cut minis, splashed radiantly with oceanic hues. And there were swimsuits; oh, how there were swimsuits. The words "rooftop party" somehow came to mind at the sight of so many uncovered bodies. But, really, are you surprised?

The Five Most Miami Collections at New York Fashion Week
Courtesy of Desigual

Desigual

Come on, Adriana Lima opened and closed the show for crying out loud! And as soon as we saw the Brazilian bombshell step out onto the scene with those lofty gams, we knew Latin spice was bound to spill all over the runway. And who knows how to give a little spice better than our Magic City? Though the show, entitled "Say Something Nice," wasn't inspired by one ethnic culture in particular, the brand and its collaborator, Christian Lacroix (you may have heard of him) showered the collection in playful floral prints, emphasizing on specifics like tropical hibiscus and Mexican dahlias on easy chiffon drapes and elongating jumpsuits.

 

The Five Most Miami Collections at New York Fashion Week
Photo by Nycole Sariol

Alejandro Ingelmo

Without the right pair of shoes in Miami, you're useless. OK, maybe not useless, but the shoe game down here is definitely on a whole other level, as Miami-born-and-bred footwear designer, Alejandro Ingelmo can attest. That's why he turned out one hell of a presentation to display his Spring 2015 collection of runners, kicks, and stilettos at the Robert Miller Gallery in Chelsea. Usually opting for darker color-ways, the Soho-based designer of Cuban descent switched it up for a more crisp visual stimulation of irridescent and white high-top sneakers finished with metallic accents for both the men and women. The designer was also praised this season for his mules and booties, juxtaposing suede, electrifying metallics, and mesh panels all on the same heel. The presentation was artfully curated with the shoes on repurposed crates, starting with the lighter hues as you walked in and ending with richer copper and red tones, serving as the perfect gradient of color.

 

Mara Hoffman

Nobody knows Miami better than Mara. She practically set the tone at this year's Swim Week, and she's up and done it again during the New York shows. Sure, there were no nipped waists and body-hugging silhouettes in sight, but the air of the show spoke of beach breeze and summer days. Softly-hued geometric patterns found their way onto cutout one pieces, while fluid maxi dresses done in an amplitude of invigorating shades and patterns served as the main character of the show.

Herve Leger

You saw this one coming, didntcha? Herve Leger is to Miami what a beginning is to an end -- without one, the other simply cannot exist. It's been rumored that the Miami broad practically gave Max and Lubov's infamous bandage dress its claim to fame. And though seemingly oversaturated by the Miami masses, this trend is alive and still kickin' according to Saturday's show. This time, however, instead of settling for the norm of its signature bandage dresses, tops, and skirts, the collection added a samurai touch to its ultra femme fatal silhouettes, a trending theme this season amongst a bevy of designers.

A jacquard, kimono top flounced atop an adjacent skirt opened the show, sparking the attention of buyers and major editors sat in the first row, setting the tone for the rest of the collection. Carrying the show to a successful high were pieces like black, high-waisted briefs revealing risqué cut-outs pairing with a black jacket with doused in hardware, dubbing as armory. Take that, Tom Cruise.

Send your story tips to Cultist at cultist@miaminewtimes.com.

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