At La Mar, Peruvian Classics Are Elevated to Haute Cuisine

At La Mar, Peruvian Classics Are Elevated to Haute Cuisine
Executive chef Diego Oka and the ceviche sampler

The unmistakable snapping of rice in a superheated stone bowl hints at what's to come. The heavy gray-and-white-flecked basin typical of Japanese eateries seems misplaced at first in a Peruvian restaurant. But the nutty, charred scent of crisping grains soon dispenses any concerns about eating a Korean-Japanese mashup of sweet soy, roast pork, Chinese sausage, and pickled ginger.

It's a fantasyland where fine-dining finesse marries immaculate executions of Peruvian flavors.

A black-clad waiter bows and sets the yawning vessel in the middle of a table facing floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors that open to views of Brickell's condo canyons. He punches through the pale-yellow egg crepe hiding the sweet-smoky combination. With two large serving spoons, he scrapes the almost burned sushi rice stuck to the bottom of the bowl, dispersing its delicious crunch into each bite. It's neither a ceviche nor a taxi-yellow plate of papas a la huancaína. But it's still distinctly Peruvian.

"The Japanese really changed Peruvian food," says Diego Oka, executive chef of Peruvian culinary ambassador Gastón Acurio's La Mar, which opened this past March inside the Mandarin Oriental on Brickell Key. "They taught us how to eat fish raw, how to cut it, how to clean it, and how to eat it right at that moment to tell what it is and whether it's fresh."

Nigiri criollo
Nigiri criollo

Location Info

Map

La Mar by Gaston Acurio

500 Brickell Key Dr.
Miami, FL 33131

Category: Restaurant > Asian Fusion

Region: Brickell

Details

La Mar by Gastón Acurio

305-913-8358
mandarinoriental.com

Daily 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5:30 to 11 p.m.

Ceviche sampler $29
Nigiri anticucho $9
Causa de olivo $13
Chicken anticucho $12
Picarones $11

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When diplomatic relations between Peru and Japan opened in the late 19th Century, thousands of Japanese from that country's southern islands left for the mountainous nation on South America's Pacific Coast. A century later, Japanese culinary traditions are so tightly braided into Peru's that the Andean nation's modified nigiri and sushi rolls are commonplace on menus around the world. The tender ceviche of today is starkly different from its first iteration decades ago, when it was prepared more than a dozen hours before it would be eaten to allow the lime juice's acid to kill any lingering bacteria. "It had the texture of wet paper," Oka says.

Oka was born to Japanese parents who themselves were children of immigrants who had crossed the Pacific. Oka's grandfather immigrated to Peru in the 1940s and sold Salonpas, a pain cream similar to Icy Hot, to make ends meet.

Over the past decade, Oka has traveled the world to help open many of the three dozen restaurants Acurio has established in a dozen countries. The Brickell Key restaurant is his first in Miami, following American outposts in San Francisco, New York, and Chicago. The shaggy-headed chef is widely credited with helping put ceviche, an iconic Peruvian creation, on a global stage in the mid-2000s.

At La Mar, a square ash-gray bowl filled with a punchy classic ceviche — studded with soft chunks of sweet potato and toothsome kernels of giant corn — offers firm, nearly translucent, uniformly sized slices of fluke in a bright-yellow lime bath with a generous helping of the ground Peruvian yellow pepper ají amarillo. Another holds perfect, gem-like cubes of velvety, ruby-red tuna and crisp cucumber disks with sesame oil and toasted nori emboldening the lime juice wash.

Though the two may appear identical to other ceviche dishes around Miami, they're not. The fish is cut with such precision and the tart, lime-based leche de tigre is balanced with such a deft hand it's clear the cooks working in near silence at the open raw bar and grill are held to a higher standard.

Even the humble potato is executed with careful attention. The starchy tuber is a centerpiece of Peruvian cuisine thanks to the thousands of Andean varieties that grow in the foothills and slopes of the 4,300-mile-long mountain range. Moist, Ping-Pong-ball-size purple potatoes are slathered in a rich, cheesy huancaína sauce that's fragrant with ají amarillo and tongue-tickling spices.

Almost every facet of La Mar smacks of a fantasyland where fine-dining finesse marries immaculate executions of Peruvian flavors. After guests descend a long staircase from the Mandarin's incense-scented lobby, a host in a tailored suit sporting a geometrically perfect Windsor knot whisks them to tables in a wood-wrapped dining room. It's warmly lit by constellations of tiny lights hanging almost magically among the crystals of a wavy chandelier. Low-slung tables are surrounded by bright-teal-banded chairs that, along with the water views, continually tie the otherwise blocky, square-edged room to the sea. As the sun slips below the horizon, the soundtrack effortlessly fades from happy hour's thumping minimal techno to a percussive salsa rhythm that's upbeat without being burdensome.

Service flows just as smoothly. One waiter rushes to pull chairs out from under shiny, wood-grained tables as guests are seated. Later, another server easily dissects unfamiliar preparations and ingredients into relatable flavors and offers suggestions beyond the priciest choices.

As a variety of small plates rolls out of the split kitchens, it becomes difficult to tell where the Peruvian influences stop and the Japanese ones begin. Causa de olivo, another classic Peruvian dish with a Japanese-Peruvian slant, brings two luscious cylinders of Idaho potatoes steamed to preserve their moisture and then whipped with canola oil and ají amarillo. Atop each sits a rich yet tart purple-white combination of octopus, mayonnaise, Peruvian olives called botija, red onions, olive oil, and lime juice.

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ooaiaa8
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ecandela18
ecandela18

Un extraordinario artículo sobre la cocina peruana y su mixtura con las técnicas japonesas. Casi un poema sobre cada plato. Extraordinary article over the peruvian cuisine, almost a poem for each peruvian art to food with elevated taste enhanced with the japanese cousine style, the result an identified flavor knowing as peruvian food. Thanks Gaston and your peruvian equipment.

 
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