A more approachable sweet is the manchego panna cotta. It is simultaneously creamy and gelatinous, like cheesecake with some bounce or a deconstructed dessert cheese plate. It comes topped with kumquat compote and a thyme cookie.

15 Steps has a very talented young chef and a playful waitstaff — I overheard one waiter joke to a patron that the restaurant is trying out a concept without a bathroom. That's all fine. But in this locale with these prices, boxed lemonade, slapstick television, and recycled décor detract from the overall impression.

The space will change again soon. Nobu Hospitality plans to open a Nobu Hotel inside the Eden Roc, similar to the concept at Caesars Palace Las Vegas, and a Nobu restaurant will open in the 15 Steps space. In summer 2015, Ford and company are slated to take over the spot in the hotel now occupied by the Cabana Beach Club.

Gnocchi and black truffle ragout. See more photos: Closer Look: 15 Steps at Eden Roc Miami Beach.
Gnocchi and black truffle ragout. See more photos: Closer Look: 15 Steps at Eden Roc Miami Beach.

Location Info

Map

15 Steps

4525 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33140

Category: Restaurant > Contemporary

Region: Mid/North Beach

Details

15 Steps

305-674-5590
edenrocmiami.com

Monday through Friday 6:30 to 11 a.m. and 6 to 10 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 6:30 a.m. to noon and 6 to 10 p.m.

Roasted carrot salad $13
Gnocchi and black truffle ragout $13
Pan-roasted halibut $29
Grapefruit soup $10

See also: Closer Look: 15 Steps at Eden Roc Miami Beach

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Right now, Ford is taking the appropriate steps: focusing on food, building a staff, and using the current space as a "testing ground." When the transition begins, he will split his time between helping the Nobu team and planning this new oceanfront restaurant, where it's hoped he can make a home in a space that goes well with his cuisine.

The Eden Roc has a storied past that stretches from Frank Sinatra to the Kardashians. Let's hope this newest incarnation is closer to its distant past than more recent times.

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