But then there were things like the osso buco stroganoff, a dish closer to Russia than Milan. The tagliatelle was laced with an oleaginous, rich bone-marrow sauce, featuring pale chunks of stringy, chewy veal shank, and a side of buttered, thick, overtoasted Asiago bread. The pasta was topped with, yes, garlic scape froth — one of few throwbacks to Kilgore's molecular cuisine at Azul. The most notable parts were fat, more fat, and an anemic composition of a dish lacking even the slightest visual appeal.

Yet what was greasiest about the stroganoff was not the food, but the rim of the platter. The white plate was streaked with finger marks and the sloppy sheen of lustrous oil.

It is difficult to believe all of this was a fluke — particularly coming from a toque like Kilgore, who was trained in eateries esteemed for pristine execution and creative techniques, and experienced restaurateurs like the Goldbergs.

Exit 1's version of fish 'n' chips is one of the few dishes that work.
Exit 1's version of fish 'n' chips is one of the few dishes that work.

Location Info

Map

Exit 1

1111 Crandon Blvd.
Miami, FL 33149

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Key Biscayne

Details

Exit 1

305-361-3500
exit1miami.com

Dinner Tuesday through Sunday 5 to 11 p.m.

Ceviche $10
Heirloom beet salad $13
Fish 'n' chips $17
Benedict burger $16
Local snapper $24
Short rib $25

So far, there are few reasons to return to this reclusive dining room in Key Biscayne — until they clean up the menu, implement hair nets, and learn the wonders of a washcloth. In the medium term, I'll hope the Goldberg-Kilgore team starts running a tighter ship. They can do much better than serving a $25 stroganoff on a smeared platter in a dusty country-club setting.

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3 comments
jmm_55
jmm_55

Now tell us what you really think!

DSGFL
DSGFL

I totally agree with you.  Our experience with both Exit One and Route 9 was the opposite.  Both the food and service were excellent and I don't say that about many restaurants in Miami.  This goes beyond mean.  It sounds more like a hate fest for the owners than a serious restaurant critique.  I don't think this is the right field for you Emily.  New Times is read by many people and this review is downright nasty.  And, by the way, the $1.50 toll to Key Biscayne is a freebie compared to a $15 + tip valet or $1-$2/hr meters or pay to park - and since when does that even belong in a review?  Awful critic, good restaurant.

rmillariv
rmillariv

Too Many Blunders? Are you serious with this title as you gripe about things only an over obsessive food critic would observe. You truly have no grace or touch to your work. 

This is not a restaurant "review" but more like smashing of a business and livelihood. Your's is a hobby.  Emily, you must be trying to fill Lee Klein's shoes because this is absurd.  Exit One is nothing like you portray. "The waiters were in a dull debate," Jesus give me a break. I think I'm more interested in the waiters conversations than this "review." Was this "review" even edited? I'm seriously asking. 

 
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