Exit 1: Too Many Blunders Overshadow a Rising Chef's True Potential

But then there were things like the osso buco stroganoff, a dish closer to Russia than Milan. The tagliatelle was laced with an oleaginous, rich bone-marrow sauce, featuring pale chunks of stringy, chewy veal shank, and a side of buttered, thick, overtoasted Asiago bread. The pasta was topped with, yes, garlic scape froth — one of few throwbacks to Kilgore's molecular cuisine at Azul. The most notable parts were fat, more fat, and an anemic composition of a dish lacking even the slightest visual appeal.

Yet what was greasiest about the stroganoff was not the food, but the rim of the platter. The white plate was streaked with finger marks and the sloppy sheen of lustrous oil.

billwisserphoto.com

Exit 1's version of fish 'n' chips is one of the few dishes that work.

Location Info

Map

Exit 1

1111 Crandon Blvd.
Miami, FL 33149

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Key Biscayne

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Details

Exit 1

305-361-3500
exit1miami.com

Dinner Tuesday through Sunday 5 to 11 p.m.

Ceviche $10
Heirloom beet salad $13
Fish 'n' chips $17
Benedict burger $16
Local snapper $24
Short rib $25

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More About

• Key Biscayne
• Bradley Kilgore
• Mitt Romney
• Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

It is difficult to believe all of this was a fluke — particularly coming from a toque like Kilgore, who was trained in eateries esteemed for pristine execution and creative techniques, and experienced restaurateurs like the Goldbergs.

So far, there are few reasons to return to this reclusive dining room in Key Biscayne — until they clean up the menu, implement hair nets, and learn the wonders of a washcloth. In the medium term, I'll hope the Goldberg-Kilgore team starts running a tighter ship. They can do much better than serving a $25 stroganoff on a smeared platter in a dusty country-club setting.