Other meat mains are surprisingly prosaic: chicken teriyaki, panko-crusted chicken stir-fry, and grilled lamb chops with ginger-scallion pesto. Moderate pricing for the trio — $16 to $28 — is equally unexpected. The bill at Katsuya can certainly add up to a pricey night out, but individual dishes are less expensive than one might imagine.

Plus there are deals. A Japanese prix fixe of miso soup, salad, rice, kobachi, and a choice of steak, chicken, or salmon teriyaki — along with mochi ice cream or fruit — is just $25. That's quite a bargain for a joint this classy. Chef Katsuya's five-course tasting menu of signature dishes is $75, which is also a nice price.

Miso-marinated black cod is a Katsuya specialty, but because it's also a Nobu/Zuma/Makoto specialty, we moved on to striped bass Szechuan-style (yes, another signature). Three fillet strips are breaded and stir-fried in a stimulating Szechuan sauce flecked with red chili peppers and coriander seeds. A dinner companion lamented the lack of rice to sop up the sauce.

Fuji apple tart. View more photos: "Closer Look: Katsuya by Starck."
Fuji apple tart. View more photos: "Closer Look: Katsuya by Starck."

Location Info

Map

Katsuya by Starck

1700 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: South Beach

Details

Katsuya by Starck

305-455-2995
sbe.com/katsuya/south-beach

Dinner Sunday through Wednesday 6 p.m. to midnight, Thursday through Saturday 6 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Vegetable tempura $11
Crispy rice with spicy tuna $14
Szechuan striped bass $25
Kobe tobanyaki $32
Fuji apple tart $12

See also: Slide show: "Closer Look: Katsuya by Starck."

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The list of evocative specialty drinks is a garden of elderflower, watermelon, serrano chilies, pressed rosemary, cucumber, and peach purée — nowadays, all part and parcel of the standard mixologist toolkit. And that's a good thing.

A somewhat extensive sake list, meanwhile, includes all manner of traditional and nontraditional offerings, including quite a few labels not found elsewhere.

Red wines are heavy on Cabernet-Bordeaux blends from California — from the low end, a Louis Martini from Sonoma ($10 per glass, $38 a bottle), up to Opus One from Napa ($390). Chardonnays are mostly from Napa too, including popular labels such as Cakebread ($23/$90) and Far Niente ($125). But you can also pluck an Italian Masi Pinot Grigio for $42 or a Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand for $46. Markups are substantial.

High-rollers, take note: The menu advertises that guests should "not hesitate to ask staff or management about off-menu treasures."

The dessert recital was short and sweet: Flourless chocolate cake was one (yawn), but we chose cubes of barely baked Fuji apple and buttons of almond cookie served in a light, tasty pastry bowl. A scoop of vanilla ice cream and drizzles of caramel and tarragon syrup enhanced the treat, but $12 is a lot for what is essentially a middling apple pie à la mode.

A soft square of something custard-like also came plated with the apple dessert. Our waiter looked at it in a puzzled manner and then recalled it was an almond cookie. Except it clearly wasn't that at all.

The waiter was personable and involved in making sure our meal was going smoothly, and a vast staff works the room effectively. Service is solid in this regard. But our server, along with a couple of others who chipped in, was stumped when it came to identifying fish on the sashimi platter and the type of soy sauce used. A menu tutorial is sorely needed.

Katsuya's raw fish dishes are superb. The rest of the dining experience is like a plate of wasabi, pickled ginger, and soy — enhancing but not entrancing without the sushi.

See also: Slide show: "Closer Look: Katsuya by Starck."
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2 comments
curtisgantt101
curtisgantt101

The price of their meals are quite pricey but I consider it is the best venue for specail occassions. I am planning to buy sushi making machine so that I can serve sushi for my family whenever they want to.

 
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