A hefty square of cod fillet came capably cooked, but a guava glaze beneath pistachio-garlic crumbs burst with too much nectar flavor for the naturally sweet flakes of fish. The congri alongside was lukewarm.
A dull, sterile rendition of arroz con pollo presents a sliced, seared chicken breast draped over Spanish yellow rice and sided by sweet plantains. This dish tastes much better when bone-in pieces of poultry are cooked with the grains.
271 Miracle Mile
Coral Gables, FL 33134
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Coral Gables/South Miami
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Prices are forgiving: Entrées range from $21 to $25; small plates, which are worthier, cost $9 to $15.
Vegan salmon eggs simulate caviar flavor better than the faux sturgeon eggs. The slightly salty orange sacks threaded a plate of slightly overcooked angel hair noodles barely coated in cream and topped with chopped parsley. Another version of this dish uses vegan noodles too.
For dessert, the crème caramel is as good as it gets: a serving of wobbly custard capped with light caramel glaze and candied lime zest.
Service started sharp and dropped off just as sharply. When the room gets busy, the system gets stressed, and there's a long wait for just about everything.
Still, the Dome is a reliable go-to spot for caviar, cocktails, and tasty small plates. Gables residents are happy about that. Which is only natural.
