The prix fixe continues with a choice of Mediterranean sea bass lavraki (branzino) from the protected waters of Cephalonia, or a long-stemmed Colorado USDA Prime lamb chop. The latter was as tender as could be (but cooked a shade under the requested state), imbued with charbroiled flavor, and dappled with accents of lemon and oregano. Steamed broccoli and cauliflower were well seasoned and boldly buttered, and roasted Greek fries arrived as moist, lemony spears.
Baklava or walnut cake completes the prix fixe and are also offered on the regular menu. The cake is fresh, if heavy on allspice aromatics; mastic ice cream alongside is similarly spiced but boasts a richly dense texture (mastic is a resin used in chewing gum, pastries, sweets, and in the Greek liqueur mastichato).
Charred octopus
Location Info
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Estiatorio Milos
305-604-6800
milos.ca/restaurants/miami
Lunch daily noon to 2:30 p.m.; dinner Sunday through Thursday 5 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to midnight.
Zucchini/eggplant tower
$29
Tomato salad
$16/$28
Barbounia
$57/lb.
Skorpina
$57/lb.
Walnut cake
$10
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Returning to the regular menu: Raw bar selections are few, with only avgotaraho (bottarga) being a bit out of the ordinary. It's the roe of Mediterranean gray mullet "cured in the handpicked sea salt of the Aitoliko."
Mezze spreads such as taramosalata and skordalia (the latter an almond, garlic, and oil emulsion) are smoother and more refined than most renditions. The "Milos special," a tower of cleanly fried zucchini and eggplant with kefalograviera cheese and a pool of tzatziki, is also prepared with uncommon aplomb. Charred octopus, speckled with oregano and Santorini capers and lightly splashed with red-wine vinegar and olive oil, is likewise a solidly satisfying take.
Vegetarians (and diners who appreciate vegetables) are catered to via a half-dozen preparations, such as baby beets with roasted garlic and mint yogurt, grilled vegetables with haloumi cheese, and a trio of wild mushrooms grilled with thyme.
A majority of the 300 wines on hand come from Greece. There are some extravagant vintages, but bottles start at a reasonable $30, and wines by the glass range from $12 to $23.
Our waiter was more than proficient, but as dinner progressed, we were intermittently attended to by others who weren't as focused. A couple at the table adjacent to ours, who had requested their whole fish be served headless, were certainly taken aback when the fish arrived with head attached. The woman was literally repulsed, which is likely why they'd made the request to begin with.
There is surprise, and then there is shock — my reaction to seeing the 200-seat room packed to the gills. Evidently the recession hasn't yet trickled up to the top. Regardless, Estiatorio Milos offers exquisite seafood and Hellenic opulence for those who can afford it.
