Seafood entrées ($34 to $48) encompass sautéed turbot, grilled swordfish or yellowfin tuna, and a three-pound whole Maine lobster ($70). The lowest-end steak is a 12-ounce New York strip for $42. A 16-ounce cut of the same is $48, as is a ten-ounce tournedos Rossini (filet mignon with foie gras and truffle sauce). The best bang for the buck is probably a roasted organic half-chicken with herbs de provence for $25.

Your best bet, though, is a stunning rendition of joue de bœuf à la bourguignon ($33) — beef cheeks braised for five hours and served with a meaty glaze so deep it looks black. Nubs of bacon, potatoes, mushrooms, and carrots stud the sultry sauce.

I also relished a leg and thigh of duck confit ($35), whose meat was moist and tender and skin as crunchy as a corn chip. Plum sauce pooled on the plate wasn't overly sweet. Shiitake mushrooms, sweetly caramelized carrots, and a square of potato gratin rounded out the plate.

Shrimp carpaccio
Shrimp carpaccio

Location Info

Map

La Gloutonnerie

81 Washington Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > Brunch

Region: South Beach

Details

La Gloutonnerie

305-503-3812
lagloutonnerie.com

Dinner Sunday through Thursday 6 p.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday 6 p.m. to 1 a.m.; brunch Sunday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Shrimp carpaccio $12
Coquille Saint-Jacques $21
Beef bourguignon $33
Duck confit $35
Black Forest cake $9

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The turbot is terrific too. The large-flaked, mildly flavored fish is sautéed simply and sauced with a textbook beurre blanc that will convince you it's time for butter sauce to come back into vogue. Tomato tatin alongside boasts grape tomatoes slowly oven-baked until the full essence of the fruit is revealed.

A side of "fennel, spring onions, shallot, and potato confit" lacked spring onions, but disappointed more because I was expecting something better than boiled, hand-turned potatoes alongside shallots and fennel cooked in olive oil. As a small consolation, it's the sort of simple, rustic side plate of vegetables I have encountered at bistros in small French villages. Plus it's a generous portion (all à la carte sides are $9).

Black Forest cake is delectable. A somewhat narrow rectangle of dark chocolate cake is layered with whipped cream, glazed with chocolate fondant, and studded on top with liqueur-soaked cherries. A duo can divide this one too, but it's so good you'll probably want your own.

La Gloutonnerie is courting the customer in admirable fashion: The authentic French cuisine is pristinely prepared, service is mostly attentive, cocktails ($15) are assembled from all fresh ingredients, and the décor is cozy.

Will that be enough to spare Gloutonnerie from the fate of its foregoer in this finicky SoFi neighborhood?

Let's hope for the best.

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