Edge Steak and Bar Wins With Delicious Cuts, Bright Cuisine, and Affordable Bills

View a photo slide show of Edge Steak & Bar.

One of two lamb chops on my plate at Edge Steak & Bar was overcooked; it was supposed to be medium-rare but was served medium. A side order of haricots verts with mixed mushrooms was bland and contained too many crushed walnuts. Minor errors like those usually aren't noteworthy when reviewing a restaurant. But those missteps were notable because they were the only kitchen miscues I saw at Edge. Everything else in every meal — from fresh slices of sourdough bread before dinner to beautifully crafted desserts at the finish — was prepared to near perfection. And that is an unusual occurrence indeed.

There is nothing out of the ordinary about Edge's dining room inside Brickell's Four Seasons Hotel. It's handsome enough, tastefully dressed in varying shades of taupe and beige, but there is a hotel-dining-room cookie-cutter feel about it. Plus the music, including some incongruous disco, is played too loudly early in the evening.

If the weather is worthy, consider dining on the lovely terrace. The 76-seat area is lush with greenery; romantic with twinkling lights, lanterns, and gauzy curtains; and covered by a trellised canopy with a retractable awning. Except for being seven stories above Biscayne Bay, it feels like summer in the Hamptons.

Location Info

Map

Edge Steak & Bar

1435 Brickell Ave., 7
Miami, FL 33131

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Downtown/Overtown

Details

Edge Steak and Bar

305-381-3190
edgerestaurantmiami.com

Breakfast daily 6:30 to 11 a.m.; lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner 6 to 11 p.m.; brunch Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Edge Bar 3 p.m. to midnight.

Pork belly with apple and celery salad $13
Tartare sampler $18
Basil-crusted corvina $22
Butcher's cut filet $25
Chocolate napoleon $7

View a photo slide show of Edge Steak & Bar.

View a photo slide show of Edge Steak & Bar.

Executive chef Aaron Brooks is a native Australian who spent the past decade journeying through Four Seasons kitchens from Vancouver to Boston. Chef de cuisine James King likewise earned his chops at Four Seasons venues, as well as at the Seafood Bar at the Breakers in Palm Beach and Ocean Grill at Amelia Island Plantation Resort. The clean, bright cuisine at Edge should greatly hone the already keen careers of both.

East Coast oysters, jumbo shrimp, stone crab claws, and a lobster cocktail with key lime crème fraîche constitute the shortlist of raw bar selections, which are served in bowls of crushed ice or upon grander, multi-tiered displays. Other starter options encompass "creamless" creamed corn soup with Maine lobster and a trio of salads culled at least partly from local farms.

"Appetizers" are limited to mussels with bacon and citrus; wahoo tiradito with fried olives and saffron vinaigrette; tender calamari rings simmered with chorizo in a cilantro-laced, salsa verde-spiked tomato sauce (don't miss it); and pork belly with a crisp cap caving in to soft, succulent shreds of intense Berkshire pork flavor.

Four tartares can be sampled individually ($10 to $13) or as a combo. Samplers such as those often tease the taste buds without satisfying them with enough of any single flavor profile. The quartet here comes amply portioned on four sectioned plates, each as creative as the next. Ahi tuna tickles the palate with pickled shallots, watermelon, and fresh mint. Scallops with Florida pomelo, crisp jícama sticks, and a bite of habanero taste scintillatingly tart. Corvina refreshes via strips of cucumber, green apple, and celery in a piquant aji amarillo sauce. And small, delicate cubes of Angus beef tenderloin are tossed with the traditional garnishes and a bracing burst of pickled mustard seeds. They are among the tastiest tartares in town, and the four-for-$18 price ranks them among the least expensive too.

Edge's pricing makes it the haute hotel restaurant with a heart. The most expensive appetizer — including soups, salads, and tartares — is $13. The seafood and Creekstone Farms steaks are offered in small, medium, and large cuts, with prices to match. A six-ounce Black Angus filet mignon is $27; the same size Boston cut prime strip is only $20. A terrific "butcher's cut" filet (taken from the shoulder and shaped like a little football), firmly textured and fully flavored, gets assertively seared on the 1,800-degree infrared grill.

The rich, natural taste of the beef needs no enhancement, but diners can choose from a half-dozen sauces. Malbec jus is classic — dark and sumptuously sticky from marrow in the reduced stock. Béarnaise is textbook too, meaning outrageously rich and delicious.

The only "large" steak is a humongous 24-ounce "tomahawk" with a behemoth bone that indeed resembles the namesake weapon ($45). My dinner guest and I plucked the Aussie double lamb chops from the medley of medium-size meats (a list that also includes a ten-ounce prime churrasco or slow-smoked pork ribs for $26 and a 12-ounce New York strip for $33). The one chop that was correctly cooked was luscious.

Seafoods are likewise portioned to please. Snapper and mahi-mahi, both fished from Florida waters, are available in five- or seven-ounce servings ($22 to $24 for the former, $26 to $30 for the latter). We hooked a nightly special of grilled Atlantic stone bass (AKA wreckfish), whose meaty, moist white flesh tasted like grouper but with a firmer texture. Our selection of lemon parsley butter as the sauce proved amenable, but we couldn't resist slathering the fish with that beautiful Béarnaise.

Arugula tossed with Meyer lemon dressing chaperoned the bass. Just about every main course is accompanied by a mound of those same peppery leaves, which conforms to Edge's professed "steak lite" theme.

Among the menu's "signatures" — the three main courses that aren't grilled, plus a hamburger — are all-natural chicken with a corn griddlecake and green-onion purée; Florida rock shrimp with whole-wheat pappardelle; and local corvina topped with a bright-emerald blanket of "basil crust" (which looks like a well-manicured lawn sprouting from the fish). You'd think that much basil would be overwhelming, but the herb flavor is relatively subdued and transforms the corvina into something special. So do the stunning accompaniments: a "Greek salad" of yellow and red cherry tomato halves, roasted red peppers, pitted niçoise olives, feta crumbles, and almond bits to echo dazzling splashes of neon-orange romesco sauce. Again, the price is right: $22.

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5 comments
karen escalera
karen escalera

One of my favorite dishes which you need to ask for (not on the regular menu) is the mariachi burger. For a picture and more, read my review on www.miamicurated.com.

Jeff O'Neill
Jeff O'Neill

congrats edge steak & bar on a great review- sound refreshing! I need to find time to visit- chef jeff oneill

BillBigD
BillBigD

Excellent pricing for a Four Seasons

GO WEST
GO WEST

wow, prices shockingly low for a hotel!! i cant wait to go here!

 
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