Eating House review: Pop in at this pop-up restaurant in Coral Gables

The best beverage for the fried chicken might be one of four craft beers on hand (such as Sweaty Betty from Boulder Brewing Co. and Breckenridge Vanilla Porter, $7 and $6). Four reds, five whites, and a rosé compose the wine list of boutique labels, mostly from California and Europe ($28 to $40 per bottle, glasses $7 to $11).

Desserts are cute, which can be good or bad depending upon your feelings about the final course (I prefer my dose of cuteness via babies and kittens). One of the three twee offerings was an "ice cream" of melted panna cotta with ice-cream-cone mousse and rainbow sprinkles, but we went instead with a trio of fried "b-day Oreos." The frying process softens the cookies to a consistency similar to the puffy coat of fried batter around each one. Contributing to the b-day spirit are crumbles and chunks of yellow cake surrounding a quenelle of cake-batter ice cream with sprinkles.

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Homestead tomatoes are artfully presented. View a photo slide show of Eating House.

Location Info

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Eating House

804 Ponce De Leon Blvd.
Miami, FL 33134

Category: Restaurant > New American

Region: Coral Gables/South Miami

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Details

Eating House

305-448-6524
eatinghousemiami.com

Dinner Tuesday through Sunday 7 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Tomatoes with frozen coconut milk $11
Snake River Farms pork belly $14
Fried chicken thighs and waffles $15
Pasta carbonara $21
Caramel apples $6

View a photo slide show of Eating House.

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More About

• Giorgio Rapicavoli
• Alex Casanova
• Phuc Yea
• Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

Three baby caramel apples with a little stick protruding from each are adorable too, but the flavors of sweet apple, fresh caramel, and a Cracker Jack/sea-salt crust should delight even the most mature palate.

View a photo slide show of Eating House.

There's a lot to like about Eating House: the cool-without-trying-to-be-cool ambiance; the friendly, knowledgeable, and generally efficient service spearheaded by Casanova; and more-than-fair prices (most plates $7 to $15, four or five larger composed plates $20 to $25). But what makes dining here special are the Whitney Houston moments. Just as the first time you heard the late singer, you knew she was a unique talent hitting notes few others could ever reach, you will almost certainly come across tastes in certain dishes that can't be found in many other places.

Rapicavoli is a rising star. Eating House offers that rare chance to dine on food cooked by a chef who, not too long from now, will likely be too big to be constrained behind a line.

Pop in now. (Seriously, just pop in; no reservations are taken.)