Steak aficionados needn't fret: Grilled, grass-fed Angus sirloin is tendered with fries, salad greens, and spicy mustard. Add a side of creamed collard greens, which have twice as much cheddar-enhanced béchamel sauce as necessary, but the potent collard taste, in tandem with bacon lardons, stands up to the sweet cream better than more commonly used spinach.

Some half-dozen pints of draft beer ($7 to $9 ) are likewise sturdy enough for Federal's full-flavored fare. These include Summit Red Ale and Avery Brewing Company's IPA, but you can also go high hog with a $14 pull of Oskar Blues Imperial Stout by Ten Fiddy in Colorado. Bottled brews are similar in number offered, price range, and diversity, from a $7, eleven-ounce Golden Monkey Tripel from Colorado to a double-size Hazelnut Brown by Oregon's Rogue Ales for $20.

Wine selections are smart and diverse, which won't surprise anyone who is familiar with Meinhold from her years as general manager and wine director at Fratelli Lyon (full disclosure: Meinhold is also a former blogger for Miami New Times' Short Order food blog). The list includes almost 100 bottles, all from family estate producers. Prices range from $35 to $130, with most between $45 and $65. A shorter list is printed on the back of the one-page paper dinner menu that offers just under ten whites and reds each by the glass ($7 to $13) or half-bottle ($16 to $32).

Location Info

Map

Details

The Federal Food Drink & Provisions

305-758-9559
thefederalmiami.com

Lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.; dinner Monday through Thursday 6 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6 p.m. to 1 a.m. Kitchen stays open 4 to 6 p.m.

Buffalo-style pig wings $9
Jar-o-duck $12
Lamb burger $16
Fishermen's chowder $26
Jar-o-s'mores $7

View a slide show of the Federal.

"Fontainebleau cheesecake" is so soft and creamy as to be like cheesecake pudding, this impression only fortified by its being served crustless in a cup (with graham cracker garnish). A fresh strawberry sauce caps the divine little treat.

"S'mores in a jar" brings another pudding, this one made with rich, dark chocolate and garnished with graham cracker and bronzed marshmallow fluff. It is delicious and recommendable, as is so much of the food here, but I would suggest sampling jar-o-s'mores and jar-o-duck during different visits; it's a good rule of thumb to never indulge in more than one course containing marshmallow fluff per meal.

Another rule of thumb: When a cool neighborhood joint with great food opens, eat there.

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