Perhaps it's all in the attitude. Back in the kitchen at Hy Vong, Tung Nguyen stoops to smile at a customer walking by, adjusts her sleeves, and wipes her brow before going back to plating. Four bowls are lined up in front of her. Each contains broth, pork, and handfuls of Thai basil, mint, and cilantro. Nguyen finishes each plate with a plop of rice noodles. Unlike fine-dining presentation, during which the executive chef creates a beauty plate, there's no such artistry here. Instead, once each bowl is delivered, the server mixes the ingredients to ensure noodles are coated, herbs are distributed, and diners can fork a bit of all ingredients in every bite.
The Little Havana restaurant, which has been staffed and run by women for more than three decades, is a pioneer. Nguyen started it with partner Kathy Manning, who was her refugee sponsor when she left Vietnam. Nguyen's daughter Lyn attended Harvard University and then returned to help with the family business. Together, these women have made the place an institution.
A dessert from Sunfish Grill.
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Hy Vong
305-446-3674
hyvong.com Dinner Wednesday through Sunday 6 to 11 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
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"We have broken all the rules of business," Manning says. "Over the past 32 years, we have come up with our own philosophy of how to run this place. It's the realization that working with chefs is a real art. But keep the macho out."