The "modern comfort food" here is in thematic sync with the first Morgans as well as with Joe Allen: Appetizers, main course salads, pizzas, sandwiches, and a dozen or so entrées fill out the menu. The last are mostly American-style, with a few Asian and Mediterranean dishes thrown in. Starters, however, are a global grab bag, from a quesadilla with pico de gallo to yellowfin tuna tartare with sweet chili-ginger sauce.

On one visit, we began with house salad and the soup du jour, French onion. The former brought a modest-size mix of greens with a cherry tomato and Belgian endive spear dressed in a sweet white balsamic vinaigrette. The soupe a l'oignon boasted a bronzed cap of Gruyère cheese and a hearty crouton, but the dark broth was defined more by salt and beef than sweet, slowly simmered onions and sherry.

Our Margherita pizza was just awful. The crust was thin, pale, crackly — like a poor brand of frozen pie — and topped by a thin slick of melted mozzarella cheese with sloppily chopped fresh tomatoes and a smattering of large, whole basil leaves. Plus, to paraphrase Woody Allen, not only was it bad, but also the portion was too small!

Chef Joshua Marcus at Chow Down Grill.
Chef Joshua Marcus at Chow Down Grill.
Roast chicken from Morgans South Beach. View a slide show of Morgans.
Roast chicken from Morgans South Beach. View a slide show of Morgans.

Location Info

Map

Brewhouse

920 Alton Road
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > Chinese

Region: South Beach

Morgans

1787 Purdy Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: South Beach

Details

Chow Down Grill

305-674-1674; chowdowngrill.com
Lunch, dinner, and late-night Monday through Saturday noon to 5 a.m., Sunday 4 p.m. to 5 a.m.

Chicken basil dumplings $6.95
Udon noodle soup $12.95
Tea-smoked duck with green curry sauce $20.95

Morgans South Beach

305-397-8753; themorgansrestaurant.com
Lunch and dinner daily 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. (sometimes later).

Hamburger $12
Roast chicken $18
Skirt steak $24

View a slide show of Morgans.

Related Stories

More About

The burger was better, even if it was cooked well-done rather than the requested medium-rare. The moderately thick patty gets garnished with lettuce and thinly sliced tomato and red onion on a brioche bun with dark grill marks. Diners have a choice of fries, salad, or coleslaw — a crunchy, freshly composed mayonnaise-based salad with dried cranberries and walnuts.

With our steak frites, we sampled a generous, crisp pile of homemade fries. The "charred" steak wasn't quite, but it was assertively enough grilled, plump, and juicy. Fried onions, roasted red peppers, and herb compound butter are spread atop the meat, and chimichurri sauce is served alongside. That's more than enough.

We were in the mood for calf's liver, but the kitchen was out. Next visit we were still in the mood, and the kitchen was still out. So we settled for roast chicken, which proved to be a standout item. The half-bird was partially deboned and pressed with a weight while cooking. The resultant skin was golden-crisp and flecked with fresh herbs; the meat was juicy and imbued with the flavor of those herbs. Accompaniments were ever-so-lightly sautéed spinach leaves with garlic, and bland, watery mashed potatoes.

View a slide show of Morgans.

My wife never thought she'd see the day when a wedge of banana cream pie placed in front of me wasn't immediately gobbled up. Now she has. Morgans managed the feat via a thin, soggy crust and gelatinous banana custard the consistency of tough, overcooked Jell-O. The touch of a fork sent the loose meringue flying off the pie like a toupee in a windstorm, but why use meringue to begin with on a so-called cream pie? At this point, the answer is irrelevant: The banana cream pie has been removed from the menu.

Service wasn't especially attentive, and there wasn't much in the way of manager oversight. On both visits, getting a basket of ciabatta bread was a matter of luck rather than policy; some diners received, some did not. Morgans still has a few kinks to iron out before being able to step into Joe Allen's shoes.

« Previous Page
 |
 
1
 
2
 
All
 
My Voice Nation Help
5 comments
Damon
Damon

I am a young and beautiful woman from US. i just think here is a good place to meet friends. i just wonder if i can meet a rich daddy here, because i am at the beginning of my career and i need someone's support..i uploaded my hot photos on ----[Sugarmingle. C óM-]----under the name babylove , maybe you want to check out my photos firstly!

Camille Lamb
Camille Lamb

Love the Woody Allen quote, Lee! Hahaha.

AshtonC
AshtonC

Morgans on Purdy is amazing on both food and service !!

wokstar
wokstar

Lee, I don't know when you last had Chow Down's steam bao but a month ago I had it and the dough was as close to any bao in Asia. It took them a year to perfect it but they did it, tried it from day one. What I love about Josh and Jason are they stuck their necks out in 'Chinese' food and made it fresh and pleasing instead of greasy and chop suey, so hats off to them! Their duck and ribs are outstanding, so is their house made tofu - creamy and yummy.

Lee
Lee

Hey Eleanor, Agree with you about Josh and Jason doing a good job. I used to work in a deli as a kid and knish doughs on some days came out better than on others. Maybe I hit a bad bao day.

 
Loading...