At least one composition worked just fine. Mushroom-crusted grouper with shiitake mushroom caps in truffle-mushroom broth was deliriously delicious. The moist, flaky fish and earthy flavors were lifted by sweet parsnip purée and flecks of thyme. Plus you can consistently get a fresh and luscious entrée here by going simple: All fish comes grilled, steamed, or pan-seared with a choice of lemon butter, mango chutney, salsa verde, or Scotch bonnet vinaigrette. Points of origin are posted on the menu: black grouper from Nicaragua, yellowfin tuna from Trinidad, branzino from the Mediterranean, organic salmon from Ireland, and snapper, mahi-mahi, and swordfish snared from Florida waters. Go whole hog with a whole hog fish caught locally if you catch it on the specials board; it's a big mother with soft white meat. Such straightforward fish preparations allow both the flavor of the seafood and the kitchen's deftness to shine.
View photos of the River Seafood & Oyster Bar.
650 S. Miami Ave.
Miami, FL 33130
Category: Restaurant > Raw Bar
Region: Brickell
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A glistening wedge of pristine mahi-mahi was grilled perfectly. We selected Scotch bonnet dressing on the side — sort of a spicy salsa — although lemon butter is probably the best bet (least overbearing) for most palates. Prices range from $22 to $30 for the à la carte fish, plus $4 to $9 if you choose an accouterment such as Brussels sprouts, roasted broccoli, rosemary French fries, mac 'n' cheese, or fried crab brown rice. The last featured lumps of crabmeat and minced vegetables stir-fried to lip-smacking effect with al dente brown rice, a grain that appears on so few local menus that it seems like an exotic ingredient.
Nonseafood entrées on deck are meat loaf, skirt steak, duck three ways, and risotto with truffles.
A pie of warm, fresh cherries in light syrup atop a flavorful if not flaky butter-based crust comes with vanilla ice cream, but we strongly recommend the coconut layer cake. It's the sort of giant wedge for at least two that you might find at a steak house: multiple layers of coconut-rum-soaked pound cake and vanilla pudding topped with soft, bronzed meringue icing and toasted coconut flakes. This sweet and others go for $7 — half what said steak house might charge.
Service showed an experience gained from employees working in a stable, established restaurant. It wouldn't surprise to learn that many of the waiters have been here for years. This professionalism, along with a convivial spirit and fresh seafood, makes the River Seafood & Oyster Bar a great catch for the neighborhood.
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