Ardisson's friend Sébastien Verrier, the former longtime sommelier at Palme d'Or at the Biltmore, has composed a smart and appealing wine list. A majority of the 30-plus bottles wear French labels and carry flavor notes and price points that pair well with the casual cuisine.
The décor matches the mood as well. The left side of the rectangular space is taken up with a red wall adorned with framed mirrors marked with drink specials — below which are straight-backed, cushionless wooden booths that start out mildly uncomfortable and become more so over time. The opposite side of the room features a cool little full-service bar up front and a glassed-in kitchen running to the back.
LouLou's country pâté
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LouLou Le Petit Bistro
305-379-1404;
loulou-miami.com
Lunch Monday through Friday noon to 3 p.m.; dinner Monday through Thursday 6 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6 p.m. to midnight.
French onion soup
$8
Octopus à l'escabèche
$12
Salmon with fennel and squash
$21
Duck breast with French lentils
$22
Nutella crêpe
$8
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See a photo slide show of LouLou.
LouLou exudes an unpretentious neighborhood bistro feel — a place to perhaps linger (but not in those booths) over pâté, salad, maybe a burger or some onion soup, and a well-chosen glass of wine. Much of the rest of the menu needs to be sharpened. Because though you might get away with middling Asian bistro food, these days middling French bistro fare is simply not what the times demand.
