There was nothing about tender, juicy strips of Niman Ranch churrasco skirt steak that a potent whipped horseradish/goat-cheese/chimichurri spread couldn't mask. Seriously: The meat was toothsome, and many diners will enjoy the kick of that horseradish splash, but it should be served on the side for those who prefer their steak naked. New York strip, rib eye, center-cut filet, and center-cut pork chops are the other Ranch offerings.
Choice of Parmesan mashed potatoes, rice pilaf, fries, sweet potato fries, or blandly steamed broccolini (would it kill them to add garlic?) comes with the churrasco, but we paid a $5 swap fee to get a premium side of crab fried rice. The few scraps of crustacean hardly warranted a surcharge; the insipid rice was mixed mostly with corn and bits of carrot, green pepper, mushroom, and seemingly whatever else was lying around. A bachelor with limited culinary skills might cook something like this for dinner when he can't find anything but leftovers in the fridge.
Brian Birzer
Truluck's Jonah crab claws
Location Info
Details
Truluck's Seafood, Steak & Crab House
305-579-0035
Hours: Lunch Monday through Friday noon to 3 p.m.; dinner Sunday through Thursday 5 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m.
Jonah crab claws (three) $13
Crabcake $14
Alaskan halibut $31
Grouper Pontchartrain $34
Carrot cake $10
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Enophiles may take advantage of more than 100 labels representing well-respected vineyards around the world, and sip them via sampling, glass, bottle, or flight. None of the wines, however, is especially well priced, with few alluring choices less than $80 and fewer still below $50.
A postdinner dessert tray is loaded with a generous triangle of key lime pie; a bowl of fresh berries with whipped cream; enormous wedges of carrot cake and chocolate malt cake; and a "chocolate sack" overflowing with some cream-cheese/macerated-berries/whipped-cream concoction that could have been conceptualized and constructed by preschoolers.
We went with the cakes. Four moist layers of fresh pineapple-and-coconut-laced carrot cake wowed with a thin line of cream cheese frosting between each. A thicker cream cheese layer on top was sprinkled with sugar-and-spiced pecan pieces, and a boozy butterscotch sauce (that tasted like literally half butter and half Scotch) arrived on the side. The cake was very fresh, very delectable, and perhaps too filling for two; we greatly enjoyed some for breakfast the next day.
A chocolate cake with four layers of chocolate malt icing (and a scoop of vanilla ice cream) was equally big, fresh, and satisfying. Considering the size and shareability of these desserts, the respective $10 and $11 price constitutes a restaurant bargain.
Truluck's offers all sorts of deals. Monday night brings all-you-can-eat Jonah crab claws with unlimited soups, salads, and sides ($59). And every night is Date Night, a pre-Miami Spice $39 dinner of soup or salad, choice among four entrées, and a shared dessert. There's a $25 prix fixe lunch too.
Toward the end of our meal, a manager stopped by to gauge our satisfaction — and left his business card on the table. The following day, the person who had phoned in our reservation received a call from someone at Truluck's to see how dinner went. I find both gestures overly intrusive, but they show that this restaurant chain doesn't take its diners for granted. In fact, you will likely enjoy dining at Truluck's at least in part because they try so hard to make your dining enjoyable.