Entrées sampled were not as universally impressive. But bread-crusted pompano was different from most breaded fish; the coating is very thinly sliced bread crisply pan-fried with butter. Plus pompano is a treat by itself: finely textured, mildly fatty white flesh with delicately sweet flavor. Fresh wedges of artichokes, fingerling potatoes, and tomato confit surrounded the fish in an intoxicating parsley velouté.

Rather than the classic stew, DB's beef bourguignon is a single slab of flatiron steak braised with red wine to a fork-flaking softness. A length of braised celery stalk and creamy celery root purée share the plate, along with a baby carrot, but I missed the sloppy pleasure of the real deal; this might be one dish not suited to refinement.

Duck confit arrived as a hefty leg with crisp skin and dark, rich, full-flavored meat. "Pommes Lyonnaise" translated to just a few sautéed potato slices on top of the meat; spinach below was sautéed with mushroom-studded sauce forestiére. This is a solid plate of food, but one you could find similarly plated at a less heralded bistro.

Location Info

Map

DB Bistro Moderne

255 Biscayne Blvd. Way
Miami, FL 33131

Category: Restaurant > Contemporary

Region: Downtown/Overtown

Details

DB Bistro Moderne: JW Marriott Marquis, 255 Biscayne Blvd. Way, Miami; 305-421-8800; danielnyc.com/dbbistromiami.htmlMonday lunch noon to 2:30 p.m., dinner 5 to 10 p.m.; Tuesday lunch noon to 5 p.m., dinner 5 to 11 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday lunch noon to 2:30 p.m., dinner 5 to 11 p.m.; Friday lunch noon to 2:30 p.m., dinner 5 p.m. to midnight; Saturday lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., dinner 5 p.m. to midnight; Sunday lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., dinner 5 to 10 p.m.

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We skipped the DB burger of sirloin beef, short ribs, and foie gras on a Parmesan bun, which is about as famous as DB himself — for the $32 price as much as for the decadent flavors. I had it many years ago in New York, and as you might imagine, it was very tasty.

Pastry chef Jerome Maure's desserts are not the traditional tarte tatin, soufflé, or crème brûlée, but composed plates of petite, sometimes scintillating components. Lemon gratin, for instance, boasts a creamy lemon curd atop a pistachio-pine nut biscuit, with Granny Smith apple confit and yogurt sorbet alongside. Chocolate coupes glacées bring Jameson ice cream atop a dark, dense chocolate mousse (the menu calls it "sorbet") topped with whipped cream and chocolate shavings; small, warm, oven-fresh oatmeal raisin cookies come alongside — tasty, but really just a boozy sundae.

Best bet might be a table-sharing basket of warm, lemon-infused madeleines dusted with powdered sugar, or a selection of fromage such as Brie de Meaux, Roaring Forties Blue, and Humboldt Fog goat cheese: a genteel end to an elegant dinner.

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7 comments
linus74
linus74

OMG... did DB Bistro open another location in Brickell? That's great! I love the downtown location.

zqxz
zqxz

Finally (48 hours) time limit to buy.

LV Muffler $ 5.99LV Bags $ 19.9 LV Wallet $ 6.55Armani Glasses $ 5.99LV Belt $ 6.9

Buy addresses---- tntn.usTips (48 hours after the special product is invalid)

zqxz
zqxz

Finally (48 hours) time limit to buy.

LV Muffler $ 5.99LV Bags $ 19.9 LV Wallet $ 6.55Armani Glasses $ 5.99LV Belt $ 6.9

Buy addresses---- tntn.usTips (48 hours after the special product is invalid)

zqxz
zqxz

Finally (48 hours) time limit to buy.

LV Muffler $ 5.99LV Bags $ 19.9 LV Wallet $ 6.55Armani Glasses $ 5.99LV Belt $ 6.9

Buy addresses---- tntn.usTips (48 hours after the special product is invalid)

zqxz
zqxz

Finally (48 hours) time limit to buy.

LV Muffler $ 5.99LV Bags $ 19.9 LV Wallet $ 6.55Armani Glasses $ 5.99LV Belt $ 6.9

Buy addresses---- tntn.usTips (48 hours after the special product is invalid)

zqxz
zqxz

Finally (48 hours) time limit to buy.

LV Muffler $ 5.99LV Bags $ 19.9 LV Wallet $ 6.55Armani Glasses $ 5.99LV Belt $ 6.9

Buy addresses---- tntn.usTips (48 hours after the special product is invalid)

Guest
Guest

DB Bistro is not in Brickell. Brickell is south of the Miami River, Downtown is north of it. Shouldn't a local paper know that?

 
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