Eden doesn't tempt

Eight entrées are split equally between seafood and meat/poultry. We passed on macadamia-crusted salmon — too Allen Susser circa 1989 — and settled instead on catch of the day, tilefish. Because it was lean, mild, and white-fleshed, it was probably grey tilefish, which is found in South Florida waters (our waiter, and subsequently a manager, didn't know for sure). Eden serves it as a steak-cut in Spanish-style — on a bed of stewed peppers and crisp-bottomed sections of saffron rice swelled with mussel sauce (and an intoxicating infusion of smoked paprika). The same gratifying garnishes accompany whatever the market fish happens to be.

I put off trying miso sea scallops with edamame beans and shiitake mushrooms for a second visit, but by then the scallops had been switched with black cod. The miso-lacquered fish was as rewardingly moist and sweet as it must have been when Nobu Matsuhisa introduced it in 1994. The edamame was coarsely mashed and mixed with sections of shiitake; a citrus butter seeped into the crevices of the cod.

A lengthy loin of lamb came diagonally cut into rare, juicy slices. The meat was so mild it almost tasted like beef, but a rich lamb "jus" (more like a demi-glace) boosted the flavor. Haricot vert and carrots, both cut into a small dice, and a smear of hummus comprised a tasty if unexceptional side to the $39 plate.

Location Info

Map

Eden South Beach

210 23rd St.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: South Beach

Details

210 23rd St., Miami Beach; 305-397-8760; edensouthbeach.com. Lunch Tuesday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Dinner Monday 7 to 10 p.m., Tuesday through Thursday 7 p.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday 7 p.m. to 1 a.m., Sunday 7 to 10 p.m.; Brunch Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

View our Eden South Beach slide show.

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Hopefully you're the sort who enjoys an injection of fruit in your dessert; if not, you may want to bring along a few cookies to munch on after dinner. The five dessert options are passion fruit cheesecake, hot chocolate cake with mango sorbet, milk chocolate/orange pot de crème, apple tart, and Key lime pie sundae. The last is, in essence, three very generous scoops of creamy, mellow Key lime ice cream capped with whipped cream and studded with graham crackers — some sticking from the side, others broken and placed at the bottom of the sundae glass. The apple tart, dubbed "Eve's first bite," is a flat round of puff pastry topped with warm, softly baked slices of the fruit and crème fraîche.

Meanwhile, in the Big Apple, Aureole customers are offered an apple "Brown Betty" made with cinnamon cider and curry cream. Another choice is Greek yogurt mousse with concord grapes, pumpernickel, and thyme. Could it be that chef Lee dumbed things down for what he perceived to be an unsophisticated Miami clientele? We can't say, but judging from lackluster crowds at Eden thus far, South Florida locals are proving savvier than expected.

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3 comments
zqxz
zqxz

Finally (48 hours) time limit to buy.

LV Muffler $ 5.99LV Bags $ 19.9 LV Wallet $ 6.55Armani Glasses $ 5.99LV Belt $ 6.9

Buy addresses---- tntn.usTips (48 hours after the special product is invalid)

SoBe Food Review
SoBe Food Review

i think this review is totally off the mark - i had an awesome meal at this place. there was a great vibe and service was fantastic. i am not sure that mr klien knows what he is talking about.

Bob
Bob

I would say that this review is right on the money. In addition, what is needed on that block a neighborhood spot with a little flair. Unfortunetly, they have been unable, or unwilling, to cater to those that would and could pay not only their own rent but probably the rent of the restaurant as well. I look forward to the NEXT restaurant in its place.

 
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