The "fork and knife" burger might be the tallest in town, a fat round of ground, grass-fed beef piled with smoked bacon, caramelized onions, and cheddar cheese in a brioche bun — a thatch of thin, homemade, flawless fries alongside. Still, most folks would deem $18 too much to pay for a hamburger that isn't stuffed with foie gras. Main-plate prices, however, are reasonable: Most cost $20 to $28.

Carnivores can likewise lean toward pork loin with calabaza purée or a daily changing cut of steak from 4 Arrows Ranch (it's located between Ocala and Gainesville) garnished with oxtail marmalade — a creative and enticing touch. Carnivorous couples may want to share a "cowboy steak" for two ($70), which comes with potatoes Anna, bordelaise sauce, and roasted vegetables. I never even knew cowboys liked bordelaise sauce.

Sustain had just received its liquor license when we visited, so bar picks were limited to four red and five white wines (most in the $30 to $40 range), and a trio of draft beers (Chimay Tripel, Key West Sunset Ale, and Miami's favorite brew bargain, the $3 Pabst). Creative cocktails are concocted as well ($10).

50-mile salad
50-mile salad

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3252 NE First Ave., Miami; 305-424-9079; sustainmiami.com. Lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., brunch Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m, dinner Sunday through Thursday 6 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6 to 11:30 p.m.

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A round of warm pecan tartlet in shortbread crust was not too sweet (relative to pecan pies) and lustily spiked with bourbon. A terrific quenelle of hazelnut ice cream on top offered a hot/cold, double-nut depth. Apple pie was an authentically prepared rendition of the heartwarming classic — fresh and warm, with delicate, lightly sugared crust, and cap of vanilla ice cream. Yup, Sustain is real. And it is real good.

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4 comments
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Chef sean
Chef sean

And yes Lee, Pumpkin Sword gets its color due to what it eats. A big diet of carotenoid rich deep sea krill and squid

Chef sean
Chef sean

Congratulations Alex all your hard work is paying off

Brandon
Brandon

Just an FYI for the author - Pumpkin Swordfish is a species of fish that has a pink/orange hue to the flesh, and Quail is generally served medium rare to medium since it has a tendency to dry out...

As a disclaimer, I work in the restaurant industry, but not for Sustain, and I have never been there.

Lee
Lee

Thank you both for the heads up on pumpkin swordfish -- I'm so used to chefs being cute with dish titles, and also with plates that come without promised accompaniments, that it didn't occur to me to see if it was the name of the species of fish. Of course it should have, but it didn't.

And to Brandon: I know how quail should be served, but this one was fully raw in spots.

 
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