Pubbelly is pub-perfect

More small plate delights: fried chicken thighs piquant with kim chee served with bibb lettuce leaves for handling, and mustard miso for dipping; and four really moist meatballs made from pork, pork belly, and beef with threadlike somen noodles serving as "spaghetti," tomato sauce sassed with lemongrass, and a sprinkling of chopped peanuts replacing Parmesan.

Charcuterie can likewise jump-start a meal, or serve as one by itself. Jamón serrano from Segovia, Spain; country ham from Kuttawa, Kentucky; and speck from Tyrol, Italy, are shaved thin and presented individually ($8 to $10) or as a trio ($26).

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McBelly packs a flavor punch.

Location Info

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Pubbelly

1418 20th St.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: South Beach

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Details

1418 20th St., Miami Beach; 305-532-7555; pubbelly.com. Dinner Tuesday through Friday 6 p.m. to 2 a.m., Friday and Saturday 6 p.m. to midnight.

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More About

• South Beach (Miami Beach)
• Jose Mendin
• Andreas Schreiner
• Main Dish Recipes
• Food and Cooking

A gastro-pub is basically a chef-driven tavern that, if living up to the name, highlights an eclectic mix of fare that pairs well with an equally eclectic brew of beers and wines. Pubbelly fits that bill like pigs in a blanket: The food here can be wildly imaginative, as in the aforementioned duck and pumpkin dumplings, or pork belly with butterscotch and corn powder. And more than a dozen bottled beers include: Delirium Tremens (a strong Belgian ale), Morimoto Soba Ale, Clipper City Peg Leg Stout, and Pabst Blue Ribbon, the most affordable at $4.50. Fourteen-ounce draughts of Helles Lager and Hoptical Illusion go for $7. The only real surprise among the two-dozen boutique red and white wines from around the globe ($30 to $79) is that none is from America. A rotating list of sake sells for $28 to $44 per bottle. A few premium bottles are more expensive. Waiters can help with selections, as they are fairly knowledgeable about the food and beverage. Overall, service is personable and attentive.

Soft-serve ice cream is prepared on premise, and serves as the base for a couple of desserts — including one dandy topped with diced brownies and a pinch of bacon bits that adds a slight contrasting bite of salt. Like so much of the preceding food, it was fresh, homespun, tasty, and a legit value at $6. Pubbelly has figured out the secret to success.