Michael McElroy
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Wynwood Kitchen & Bar 2550 NW Second Ave., Miami; 305-772-8959; lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to midnight.
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Entrées are divided into a quartet each of fish and meats ($18 to $29). Catch of the day, grilled salmon, and fish and chips didn't seem all that inspiring on the sea side, but we were enticed by a delicate-sounding "lemon zest, olive oil, and fresh herb compote" accompanying steamed snapper. The fillet of fish, served skin-side-up, was fresh and moist, but the pedestrian, pesto-like paste atop the snapper was not nearly as zesty as envisioned. Main courses come with a choice of two side dishes. Our picks were potato croquettes and creamed spinach. The former proved delectable — two cleanly fried cylinders of creamy potato. The creamed spinach was creamless, cold, and bland.
Wynwood Kitchen & Bar is brand new, which leaves us optimistic it will grow into a more consistent restaurant. (You gotta have hope.) Right now, it seems to be more about Basel than basil. Stick to the burgers and beers. Save room for banana pudding. And enjoy the art.