Essensia Restaurant & Lounge: Clean cuisine in a breezy outdoor setting

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Essensia's miso-glazed Atlantic black cod

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Essensia Restaurant at the Palms Hotel & Spa

3025 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: South Beach

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Essensia Restaurant & Lounge: Palms Hotel & Spa, 3025 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; 305-908-5458; thepalmshotel.com. Breakfast daily 6:30 a.m. to 11 a.m.; lunch daily 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner Sunday through Thursday 6 to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 6 to 11 p.m.; and brunch Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

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More About

• Frank Jeannetti
• Hedy Goldsmith
• Gail Goetsch
• Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

Pastry chef Gail Goetsch, who formerly worked under dessert doyen Hedy Goldsmith, focuses on delicacy, not decadence. Apricot tart — moist half-moons of the baked fruit arranged atop a buttery crust and accompanied by a scoop of ginger-almond ice cream on the side — was terrific. Homemade sorbets allow for a bright finish as well. We sampled two flavors as components of other desserts: Key lime sorbet enlivened a buoyant cylinder of angel food cake, and a tiny scoop of mango sorbet — with a velvety texture and electric fruit flavor — was the highlight of a refreshing coconut tapioca soup.