AltaMare is bigger, busier, and better than ever

Comments (0) By Lee Klein Thursday, May 6 2010

Most main dishes cost $20 to $30, except serious carnivorous combos such as Deep Creek Ranch grass-fed beef tenderloin with Hudson Valley duck foie gras, shaved truffles, and bordelaise sauce ($45), and a 14-ounce Angus strip loin with wild mushrooms and veal jus ($49). Appetizers and desserts can be pricey too, and the bill will swell further if you select one or more wine bottles from the 200-plus Italy-centric list. The quality of cuisine and service (friendly, professional, thorough), however, will leave you feeling the money was well spent.

AltaMare's signature dessert is the deconstructed tiramisu, and it's a dandy — especially after the waiter pours in shots of Baileys and espresso. But pastry chef Crystal Cullison, formerly of the Ritz-Carlton South Beach, impresses with a host of postdinner treats. We especially liked an airy milk chocolate semifreddo (half-frozen) embedded with salted caramel sauce and garnished with warm fudge sauce and a dark chocolate tuile. A disk of French-style (custardy) almond tart tastily teamed with rhubarb compote and vanilla ice cream, though it would have been better had the pie been warmed (as advertised).