Waiters fared well too, working the dining room gracefully under the watchful gaze of GM Bevon Brahm. The staff was informed about the menu and served with an admirable professionalism.

A cup of tangy lemon curd accompanied the least buttery shortbread cookies I've ever had. Like entrées at the Cape Cod Room, it was too clever by half; a fat wedge of fresh lemon meringue pie would have packed a much bigger wallop. A crumb-capped apple-peach cobbler had more homespun appeal, but a side scoop of cinnamon ice cream elicited all the subtle pleasure of eating a spoonful of straight cinnamon powder.

Complimentary saltwater taffies at meal's end are a nice touch. Not so a 21 percent service charge tacked to all checks (which includes "complimentary valet parking"). It brings two thoughts to mind:

Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

The Cape Cod Room

5937 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33140

Category: Restaurant > Seafood

Region: Mid/North Beach

Details

At the Bath Club, 5937 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; 305-864-1262. Dinner Wednesday through Saturday 6 to 10 p.m. and Sunday brunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

1. We're slipping further and further away from what a tip is supposed to be.

2. Whoever came up with this idea is definitely the product of sea-slime.

Gee, letting us sea-salt-of-the-earth types in maybe wasn't such a hot idea after all.

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