Joe Rocco
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8449 Bird Rd., Miami; 305-225-6365;
pamelasdelicatessen.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Monday through Saturday 8:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
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Solid service? Enough fresh, homemade desserts to stock a small bakery? Check and check. The former features an effortless blend of friendliness and finesse; the latter showcases a whole lot of dulce de leche-based treats. Try a wedge of milojas, whose caramelized milk mortars multiple penny-thin layers of crusty cracker dough. A slice of soft, coconutty pineapple cake would prove a fine finale too.
Alas, there is no caldillo de congrio on hand to inspire a Nerudaesque ode ("the tender eel glistens, prepared to serve our appetites"). In every other way, however, Pamela's Delicatessen is a paean to Chilean cuisine.