Shallow Canyon

The food at Canyon Ranch Grill won't hurt you, but it won't boost salubrity either.

Another thing that distinguishes this Canyon from others is that it serves alcoholic beverages. These include organic, bio-dynamic production wines and craft beers, as well as cocktails culled from organic liquors. (What, no organic after-dinner cigars?) We all know that booze does not enhance one's health, but few will argue its salubrious effect on profits — especially with triple wine markups, cocktails going for $15, and beers selling for $6 to $11. If you think a spa restaurant would have its own in-house water filtration system, think again.

The price is right concerning dinner: Most appetizers run $8 to $13; entrées range from $18 (vegetable ribbons) to $25 (lamb chops, bison tenderloin). The staff is extremely friendly, although the waiters' knowledge of menu ingredients suggests that after work, they head out for their idea of health food: a Whopper without cheese.

Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

Canyon Ranch Grill

6801 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33141

Category: Hotels and Resorts

Region: Mid/North Beach

Details

6801 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; 305-514-7000; canyonranch.com. Breakfast 7 to 11 a.m., lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., and dinner 6 to 11 p.m. daily.

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A pair of "Canyon Ranch signature" chocolate chip cookies satisfied in a Chips Ahoy sort of way. The seasonal fruit in "seasonal fruit bread pudding" was banana. "Honey roasted berries" brought raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries, probably from Chile or California (plenty of fresh Florida strawberries pack the shelves at Publix, but none appeared on the plate). Alongside the cooked berries was a petite pyramid of key lime pound cake. A tired tarragon sprig arose from it like a tattered flag of surrender.

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