Bulldog Barbecue Has Bite

A new 'cue joint in North Miami is a winner.

The wine list is a short compilation of well-regarded low-end, barbecue-friendly bottles for less than $25 (glasses $5 to $8). The beer list is too short, considering how well brew goes with 'cue; let's hope more interesting bottles will come in. Then again, nothing really cuts barbecue's smoky unctuousness quite like lemonade, made by the order (squeezed lemon, sugar syrup, water) and served in a mason jar — one of those down-home touches that are much appreciated.

Bulldog poodles out when it comes to dessert. If there is anything America does as well as barbecue, it is the whipping up of classic national sweets such as chocolate layer cake, coconut-custard pie, and sweet potato-pecan pie. Instead, the menu presents the ubiquitous molten chocolate cake (disingenuously called "hot chocolate puddin' cake"); fried apple turnovers (sounds interesting, but there was none on our visit); and "milk and cookies" (I'm not certain that milk, even for children, is the ideal beverage to cap off a meal of barbecued meats). We selected fruit cobbler ­— a bowl of mixed berries in a highly sweetened, slightly thickened soup of the fruits' juices, topped with a light scattering of crouton-like streusel and centered with a scoop of Häagen-Dazs vanilla ice cream.

Joe Rocco
Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

Bulldog Barbecue and Burger

15400 Biscayne Blvd.
North Miami Beach, FL 33160

Category: Restaurant > Burgers

Region: North Dade

Details

15400 Biscayne Blvd., North Miami; 305-940-9655; bulldogbbq.com. Lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner 5 to 11 p.m. daily.

Häagen-Dazs is Häagen -Dazs, cornbread is cornbread, and ribs are ribs here. A couple of items prove better than prototype, most simply meet the bar, and a few fall short of that. Yet for all the barking over Bulldog's inadequacies, let's get right to the bite: This is a cool place to eat fresh food at fair prices, with no parking hassles, no dress codes, no reservations — no sweat!

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