A Cut Above

Climate and clientele meld into one dizzying, effervescently sexy scene.

The list of four steak butters and ten steak sauces, each of which is respectively available for a $3 and $2 surcharge, reads like a court summation of Brasel's punch-drunk charges of flavor (and I mean this in the best way): chili molé butter, Jack Daniel's pasilla garlic sauce, smoked paprika chimichurri, mango and Scotch bonnet sauce, and atomic horseradish truffle sauce. For the traditionalists, there is Cabernet reduction, peppercorn cognac sauce, and béarnaise. Which of these pair best with Meat Market's delectable steaks? That's like asking which veil would best mask Carla Bruni Sarkozy.

Our favorite among Meat Market's 21 side dishes were crisp "tater tots" retooled with a tad of Gouda cheese, although caramelized Brussels sprouts flecked with bacon and almonds, as well as a gratin of Yukon Gold potatoes, apples, and aged goat cheese, disappeared from the serving dishes just as quickly. The only bum steer was a risotto of barley with fresh artichokes and enough garlic to gag a gaucho.

The wine list treads a global terrain but covers more ground in domestic regions. Diners can spend anywhere from $40 to $4,500 a bottle, with most of the big, steak-friendly reds going for $65 to $300 (with an average markup, according to the sommelier, of 28 to 35 percent). There are about 20 wines offered by the glass.

Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

Meat Market

915 Lincoln Road
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > Steakhouse

Region: South Beach

Details

Meat Market 915 Lincoln Rd., Miami Beach; 305-532-0088 Dinner Sunday through Thursday 6 p.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday 6 p.m. to 1 a.m.

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The notion of deconstructing banana cream pie and layering the components into a martini glass just seems wrong — but damn if it wasn't delicious with its bronzed meringue topping. Also scrumptious was a mildly tart sour-cream cheesecake sided by a strangely satisfying squiggle of translucent jelly.

On one visit, service was spotty (long waits for nearly everything). On a return, it was spot-on — our waiter's tableside manner and his timing in tandem with buspeople was simply impeccable. Overall, the crew is well trained and well versed in the menu, and the management team, experienced from its time at Touch, seems to have all systems in place. This is one Market still worth investing in.

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