Michy's Queen Scores with Sra. Martinez

She sells tapas in the Design District.

Comments (0) By Lee Klein Thursday, Feb 26 2009

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International first-class: Shrimp tiradito is one of a handful of items whose ingredients and influences come from beyond Spain's borders. This rendition doesn't involve the traditional raw, sliced preparation, but triumphs instead via a trio of whole, cooked colossal Madagascar prawns perked with ginger, soy sauce, cilantro, lime juice, corn nuts, popcorn, and spicy aioli culled from hot and fruity aji amarillo chilies. Ginger-soy butter accents a sensational sweet/salty sea urchin sandwich crisply pressed in French bread, and sweetened Korean soy glazes skinny planks of braised short ribs (galbi pinchos) sided by tart green tomato slaw.

Regular: Predinner slices of boring basic baguette; darkly hued caldo gallego soup stocked with rich chicken broth, white kidney beans, small bits of bacon and pork, and lots of kale; tender calamari a la plancha with a chimichurri-like paste of garlic and herbs and a dab of aioli, nestled upon swelled grains of ink-black rice; and a round of aioli-smeared tortilla española freshly made from Homestead eggs, onions, and too few bits of chorizo (certain inspectors might qualify this as first-class with postage due on the sausage).

Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

Sra. Martinez

4000 NE 2nd Ave.
Miami, FL 33137

Category: Restaurant > Appetizers

Region: Midtown/Wynwood/Design District

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Sra. Martinez: 4000 NE Second Ave., Miami; 305-573-5474. Dinner Monday through Thursday 6 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6 p.m. to 2 a.m.

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A trio of thin, garlicky lamb chops was tasty if nothing to write home about, and a flat, dense, rectangular slab of black forest cake was more like a common flourless chocolate concoction, albeit with sautéed cherries and whipped cream; not bad, but not black forest.

Return to sender: Eggplant zalouk alongside the lamb exuded the unpleasant flavor of undercooked or unripe eggplant.

Zalouk shmalouk. When it comes to serving up delectable foods and wines in a boisterously buoyant environment, Sra. Martinez delivers.