Batty over Gotham

The new Fontainebleau joint stakes its claim as a great Miami Beach steak house.

Because Gotham Steak is born of a non-steak-house bar and grill, seafood is not treated as some afterthought for troublesome herbivores. Juicy, pristine flakes of Florida grouper practically melted into a bed of quinoa grains pooled in sprightly vinaigrette dotted with specks of ham and ripe cherry tomatoes. The fantastic fish was gone in a flash.

Customary sidekicks such as creamed spinach and baked potato play their roles — and is it some sort of prerequisite now that every restaurant must serve macaroni and cheese? Go with the hand-cut truffled Parmesan French fries or a generously portioned, textbook-tender "potato cake" of hash browns. Soggy-crusted Vidalia onion rings provided the only dastardly note during our visits.

The most outlandish dessert is a parfait glass tightly layered with peanut butter and vanilla ice creams, pastry cream, chocolate cookie crumbs, chocolate syrup, and espresso candy on top — kid's stuff, yet its decadent delectability is thematically consistent with the preceding comestibles. Rich, too, was pumpkin cheesecake, its allspice aromatics seasonally teamed with cranberry compote and a fantastic quenelle of walnut ice cream. For what it's worth, I overheard a woman at the next table proclaim her modestly portioned piece of carrot cake to be the best she'd ever had.

Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

FB Steakhouse

4441 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33140

Category: Restaurant > Steakhouse

Region: Mid/North Beach

Details

Fontainebleau Hotel, 4441 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; 305-538-2000. Dinner Sunday through Thursday 6 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6 p.m. to midnight.

There are no heroes or villains in Miami Beach's increasingly competitive steak-house story line, but there sure are a lot of contending characters. Gotham is as strong as any.

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