South Beach's Wish Restaurant

Good food at high prices.

Their recommendations weren't always reliable, either. One server ecstatically touted a side order of truffled mac and cheese, describing it as a creamy "fondue" of Manchego, Fontina, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and blue cheese flecked with black truffle shavings. What arrived was horn-shaped cornetti pasta coated in mild white cheese sauce perfumed with truffle oil. It was tasty enough, but more distinctive in price ($12) than flavor.

A new rule of thumb: Never order French toast for dessert. Our waiter's overly imaginative depiction was an alluring abstraction of the flimsy, somewhat burned triangle of egg-soaked, pan-fried, Grand Marnier-splashed brioche that showed up. Just the sight of it pricked our expectations like a pin in a balloon. A generous portion of diced fruit salad on the plate was fresh, varied, and capped with a cool quenelle of crème fraîche. If they'd bill this as fruit salad and toss in the toast as a surprise garnish, diners would likely be less disappointed.

Vanilla pot de crème was not nearly as texturally tender as the cauliflower purée, or even as that of a typical pot de crème. Fresh orange slices on top couldn't rescue it, and potent crackles of pink peppercorns nearly ruined it.

Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

Wish Restaurant

801 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: South Beach

Details

Wish Restaurant: The Hotel, 801 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-674-9474. Breakfast 7 to 11:30 a.m. and lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. Dinner Sunday through Thursday 6 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6 p.m. to midnight.

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Although some items missed the mark and others were less than inspired, most of Wish's repertoire will satisfy discriminating palates. The problem is pricing: The ravioli appetizer is $21; pork chop $42; French toast $12; cocktail $15; coffee $8. You can do the math. As one of my guests put it, "There's nothing wrong with the food that $10 less per starter and entrée couldn't fix."

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